Japanese designer Jun Takahashi's label Undercover is a rare specimen. Ambiguity has always been one of the cornerstones of the Undercover aesthetic. His creations manifest an inexorable notion of precariousness, of instability – as well as a certain strength and ingenuity. In the current climate of uncertainty, the superb…

Japanese designer Jun Takahashi's label Undercover is a rare specimen. Ambiguity has always been one of the cornerstones of the Undercover aesthetic.
His creations manifest an inexorable notion of precariousness, of instability – as well as a certain strength and ingenuity. In the current climate of uncertainty, the superb amalgam of chaos, determination, fragility, peace and humor specific to the designer is more necessary than ever.

Undercover’s collections have only grown more sophisticated over time, with the Harajuku-esque Sex Pistols-esque artifice of the early seasons giving way to clever, imaginative and conceptual explorations of femininity and tailoring. Like other Japanese mavericks such as Rei Kawakubo (an early devotee of Takahashi’s work) and Junya Watanabe, Takahashi transforms, transfigures and reassembles classic pieces into stunning contemporary creations. His penchant for sartorial mash-ups translates into lingerie that looks like workwear, as well as princely accessories fashioned from mundane collars and shirt cuffs.
However, and perhaps more so than with other deconstructionists, the notion of beauty is a constant in Takahashi's world, which thumbs its nose at its lyrical, unalterable, even romantic definition.
And that is what distinguishes the creator: a gift for dissecting the sublime and exposing a sinister side that – coupled with his sense of the bizarre – turns out to be just as poetic.

This delicate balance between extreme beauty and decadence—a darkly recurring theme for Takahashi—is also found in one of the coats from the fall/winter 2005 collection, decorated with hundreds of felt cutouts in the shape of skulls. An artistic tour de force, it is at once infinitely elegant, macabre and undeniably funny. In a similar vein, the masks—long a signature of Takahashi’s shows—aim to counterbalance the preciousness of his exquisitely crafted designs by contrasting them with the brutal reality of the here and now. The designer is not content to create pretty clothes; he seeks to interpret culture.

Parade piece
Product Description: Nylon coat with removable long sleeves. Multi-colored logo and text on front and back. Wide collar. Front closure. Side pockets
Material-composition: Nylon
Size: 2

The Japanese designer Jun Takahashi's Undercover is a rare specimen. Ambiguity has always been one of the cornerstones of the Undercover aesthetic.
His creations manifest an inexorable notion of precariousness, instability - as well as strength and ingenuity. In today's climate of uncertainty, the designer's superb blend of chaos, determination, fragility, peace and humor is more necessary than ever.

Undercover's collections have become increasingly sophisticated over the years, as the Harajuku-esque Sex Pistol-style Harajuku tricks of the early seasons give way to ingenious, imaginative and conceptual explorations of femininity and fit. Like other Japanese unconventional minds such as Rei Kawakubo (early Takahashi) and Junya Watanabe, Takahashi transforms, transfigures and reassembles classic pieces into stunning contemporary creations. His penchant for clothing mash-ups includes lingerie that looks like work clothes, as well as princely accessories made from ordinary collars and shirt cuffs.
Now, and perhaps more than among other deconstructionists, the notion of beauty is a constant in Takahashi's world, which thumbs its lyrical, unalterable, even romantic definition.
And this is what distinguishes the creator: a gift for dissecting the sublime and exposing a sinister facet of it that - coupled with his sense of the bizarre - proves to be just as poetic.

This delicate balance between extreme beauty and decadence - a darkly recurring theme at Takahashi - can also be found in one of the coats in the Fall/Winter 2005 collection, adorned with hundreds of felt skulls. A true artistic tour de force, it is at once infinitely elegant, macabre and undeniably fun. In the same vein, the masks - which have long been one of the signatures of Takahashi's fashion shows - seek to counterbalance the precious side of his exquisitely crafted creations by contrasting them with the brutal reality of the here and now. The designer doesn't just create beautiful clothes; he seeks to interpret culture.

Fashion show piece
Product description: Nylon coat with long removable sleeves. Multicolored logo and text on front and back. Wide collar. Closing on the front. Side pockets
Material-Composition: Nylon
Size: 2